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16th Century Flemish V1 Front by *icklesevvy:iconicklesevvy:


©2007-2008 *icklesevvy
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Submitted: July 5, 2007
File Size: 87.4 KB
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Comments: 33
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EDIT 4/6/08: Version 2 is currently planned out and the patterns are being re-assessed.

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This is my 16th century Flemish gown, recently finished. Due to lack of a sewing machine and time at school, this gown took a while to finish. I started late February and finished not quite the end of June. The delay in creation was mainly based on the fact that I got bored with the project. As I studied the paintings more, the more unhappy I became with my gown. Since I based it mostly on what other people had been doing, I failed to stick to the paintings as guidance. I will admit though, that I’m glad I used this as a trial gown. I’d be quite happy to make a new version for next season.

Now for the details: This gown is roughly based on various dress diaries throughout the tinternet, and the following paintings –

Joachim Beuckelaer – Interior of a Kitchen (1566)
[link]

Joachim Beuckelaer – The Four Elements: Fire (1570)
[link]

Pieter Aertsen – Christ and the Adultress (1559)
[link]

Pieter Aertsen – Market Woman with Vegetable Stall (1567)
[link]

Pieter Aertsen – Cook in Front of the Stove (1559)
[link]

The full outfit includes the over-gown, fitted kirtle (under-gown), shift, caul, partlet, hat, leather shoes (not pictured), hose (not pictured), and detachable sleeves.

It is fully reversible; the over-gown is brown and pumpkin, the under-gown is cranberry and blue, and the sleeves are lavender and sea-foam green. Yay, lots of options! The outfit is made up of five bed sheets (2 for over-gown, 2 for under-gown, 1 for shift), and 4 pillow cases (2 for sleeves, 2 for caul and partlet); sale special (extremely cheap), and 70% cotton. This outfit is really light and comfortable, which is nice since it was made to be a hot weather gown.

This is entirely hand-sewn. There is no boning throughout. There are ten brass rings stitched into the over-gown bodice. The under-gown laces on both sides with 36 total reinforced eyelets. The cording is plaited yarn.

I drafted the patterns myself (and I admittedly need more work with drafting and tailoring). There’s some problems with the whole get-up, but that’s why it’s VERSION 1! The hat I picked up at a Good Will and reshaped. The over-gown skirt should be pinned up in the back, but it fell apart on the way into Glasgow City Centre.

Side View - [link]
Back View - [link]
W/O Sleeves & Partlet - [link]
View of all Colors - [link]

This photo was taken at Pollok Country Park in Glasgow, Scotland.

Gown © Elizabeth A. Slucas 2007
Photo © Kevin Robertson 2007 ([link])

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~ladyrose04:iconladyrose04: Jul 5, 2007, 3:26:23 PM
Looks great. Did you find any inspiration from Brueghel? What are your fabric plans for v. 2.0?

--
Heather

Founder of the *HistoricCostume
Member of ~TextilesAlliance , *MedievalCommunity and ~Elizabeths-Court
~CountessLenore:iconCountessLenore: Jul 5, 2007, 4:22:03 PM
That looks amazing, I really love your color choices! Great job!

--
Guilt is the price we pay for doing what we were going to do anyways
Catch me on livejournal![link]
:nod::heart:

:kiss:IWG #2995:kiss:
~Kathelyne:iconKathelyne: Jul 5, 2007, 5:01:38 PM
It does look good, I lovethe colours together. The partlet is nice too, and I love your way ofgeting cheap fabric!
*Atalaia-Leafsong:iconAtalaia-Leafsong: Jul 5, 2007, 6:26:18 PM
I think it looks wonderful, especially after looking at the paintings you are using for referance. When you make the version 2, what are you planning to change?

--
Check out my gallery for drawings and renfaire costumes!
My plushie website: plushiecloset.com [link]
Creator of *Elizabeths-Court Elizabethan Guilde
*icklesevvy:iconicklesevvy: Jul 5, 2007, 11:52:14 PM
Thank you so much. It was mainly the fabrics that inspired me. I was walking around the home section of a store, saw them and thought 'those would be great colors for a Flemish gown'. hehe. And they were on sale too. I just had to give it a try. :)
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*icklesevvy:iconicklesevvy: Jul 5, 2007, 11:52:31 PMComment hidden by Owner
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*icklesevvy:iconicklesevvy: Jul 6, 2007, 12:04:11 AM
First off, thank you for the :+fav:

As for version 2: I'd like to change the kirtle (it doesn't quite fit my form right, it's more obvious when I don't have the over-gown on. I'd also like it just a touch longer), the over-gown bodice is a little long on me (hopefully that'll sort itself out as I lose a little weight), I'm debating on the skirts for the over-gown because most of the paintings I'm working from don't have split skirts, the parlet should have a little ruffle, and I'd like to do a different headpiece.

So not too much! :giggle:
*icklesevvy:iconicklesevvy: Jul 6, 2007, 12:13:15 AM
Thank you! I looked at most of Bruegel's paintings and while they may have influenced my gown, it wasn't really intentional. The main thing I wanted to take from his paintings was the over-gown that the women are wearing in the ';Peasant Dance'. I wanted to make it as a heavier, probably wool, gown for colder days at faire. Haven't gotten around to yet though.

My main plan for v2 is to make the entire thing out of linen and light weight wool. Probably means I'll be doing some dying, but that will be all sorts of fun.
~ladyrose04:iconladyrose04: Jul 6, 2007, 4:35:03 AM
I vote for the linen and the light weight wool. You can always add a wool petticoat or heavier sleeves for warmth, but making heavy wool cooler is a bit trickier. Good luck. I think it will be really nice.

--
Heather

Founder of the *HistoricCostume
Member of ~TextilesAlliance , *MedievalCommunity and ~Elizabeths-Court
*Atalaia-Leafsong:iconAtalaia-Leafsong: Jul 6, 2007, 9:20:40 AM
I see what your'e saying. Do you think the skirts should be a little fuller maybe too? Maybe it just cus of the split that makes it look that way...

Either way, i'm sure your version 2 will look awesome! I love the colors too btw. ^.^

--
Check out my gallery for drawings and renfaire costumes!
My plushie website: plushiecloset.com [link]
Creator of *Elizabeths-Court Elizabethan Guilde